Although I'm not a religious man I must say I have been blessed
with invaluable family and friends that have afforded me tremendous
opportunity in this life of mine. At midlife I am in better physical
shape than I have been since my early 20s and the best psychological
shape I have ever been in. As much as I long for a wonderful woman,
or anyone, to share the joys of our Natural World with me, I will
always be content to make my own way when others cannot walk with
me. Traveling the backcountry alone is about the biggest taboo there
is in all the wisdom that has come from the wilderness, but the
joy of spectacular solitude is impossible for many of us to resist.
Those of us that have put it together in syllogisms accept the risk
of being a solitary strider and do everything else we can to minimize
that risk. I have no desire to die in the backcountry; I will however
have my ashes cast to remote winds whenever my time comes. I think
that the humility of recognizing the gravity of the possible is
something that has put as many miles underfoot for me as any other
aspect of my psyche. This is much of who I am, and if it doesn't
scare you think about coming and walking with me.
I have hiked and scrambled many magnificent miles since my family
gave me the gift of outdoor appreciation as a boy. After losing
my parents at seven my Aunt & Uncle took my siblings and I in. Given
the circumstances I can say there is no way I could have possibly
been more fortunate. Aside from the infinite and unconditional love
and support they provided I've come to recognize their greatest
gift to me is the glory that is northwestern Wyoming. They built
a great home near Jackson and for five weeks each June & July from
the age of 10 to 14 they sent me to a legendary Ranch Camp where
I learned to love backpacking. Camp provided some of my fondest
memories at that time. As the baby of my generation my brother and
cousin taught me how to rope, ride, and do my part on horse pack
trips among many things. I never became the horseman that they did.
I climbed the Grand Teton and some other fine summits, but I never
became a technical climber either. I fancied hiking and mountaineering,
and that fancy evolved into a serious passion. As a younger man
I was fortunate to travel fairly extensively, and although I've
seen wondrous places all over the world the bias of an enthralled
childhood makes the natural world that is northwestern Wyoming my
Universe's greatest wonder outside the love of a wondrous woman.
The State of Wyoming Department Of Tourism has a slogan something
like: 'Wyoming, Like No Place Else On Earth.' There are incredible
places across Wyoming and for many people that slogan rings true
if they've only seen the geothermal wonders of Yellowstone or the
jaw dropping Gneiss towers of the Tetons. The more time we have
the good fortune to spend in northwestern Wyoming the more we come
to understand it to be something quite a bit more than just those
more famous spectacles. Beyond the Tetons there is superlative high
country found in the Wyoming, Snake River, Gros Ventre, Washakie,
Absaroka, Beartooth, and Wind River ranges. The greatest rivers
of the American West; the Columbia, the Missouri, and the Colorado
begin their monumental runs in earnest from these heights as the
Snake, the Yellowstone, and the Green respectively. For many hiking,
climbing, and fishing enthusiasts the Wind River Range, not the
Tetons, is their proverbial Holy Grail. Most of us know Yellowstone
is the world's first National Park, not as many of us know that
among many other fine wild lands that we also need to thank Teddy
Roosevelt for is the 2.2 Million acre Shoshone National Forest,
the world's first National Forest. When you combine the adjacent
areas of the Shoshone's Washakie Wilderness with the Bridger-Teton
National Forest's Teton Wilderness and the southeastern corner of
Yellowstone National Park you have the largest chunk of road less
wilderness in the contiguous states. Bridger Lake in the Teton Wilderness
is the remotest place in the contiguous states; it is farther from
a road than anywhere else south of Canada.
The 19 million acres of Greater Yellowstone is also said to be
the greatest habitat for large mammals in the earth's Temperate
Zone. There is an incredibly wide variety, but for many of us the
jewels of this mammalian magnificence are the ungulates. The Mule
Deer (Odocoileus hemionus) are often larger than the deer most people
find closer to home. Some Mule Deer in the region are known as Black-tailed
Deer. There are White-tailed Deer (Odocelius virginianus), but they
are quite uncommon to a few tiny portions of the ecosystem from
what I have seen. Although not the size of their Canadian and Alaskan
cousins, the Moose (Alces alces) are quite imposing nonetheless.
For some of us there is no other animal that embodies the spirit
and ideal of what remains of the American Wild West than the Elk
(Cervus elaphus), or Wapiti, "White Rump" for Native Americans.
The National Elk Refuge just north of Jackson is home to one of
the world's greatest and most easily seen wildlife spectacles, the
largest wintering herd of elk in the world. Pronghorn (Antilocarpa
americana) are more goat than antelope and are the fastest land
animals in the Western Hemisphere. The country's largest wintering
herd of Bighorn Sheep (Ovis canadensis) are found at the National
Bighorn Sheep Refuge on Whiskey Mountain in the Wind River Range
east of the Continental Divide just outside the town of Dubois.
I have seen far more Mountain Goats (Oreamnos americanus) in Colorado
than I ever have in Wyoming.
That's many millions of pounds of protein, and of course there
are a number of large predators. Because of the high elevation this
is a sub arctic environment. The Grizzly Bear (Ursus arctos) has
made an amazing comeback in Wyoming and will more than likely be
removed from the Threatened Species List in time after litigation
and negotiation. The Black Bear (Ursus americanus) is said by most
to be far less of a threat to humans than a Grizzly. Although I'm
one inclined to think that the simple truth is that any bear or
other animal of size can kill you and deserves space and an educated
and healthy respect. Of course there are big cats; Mountain Lion,
(Felis concolor), Lynx (Felis lynx), And Bobcat (Felis rufus). A
truly rare sight is the Wolverine (Gulo gulo), perhaps pound for
pound the most ferocious animal in North America. Coyotes (Canis
Latrans) have had to give up considerable ground since Canadian
Gray Wolves were introduced in 1995. This was said to have been
a "reintroduction" but the fact is that these wolves are a third
again larger than their extinct cousins that roamed Greater Yellowstone
generations ago. This equation that in my humble opinion is seriously
out of balance is one issue I will do my best to expound upon in
the coming months beyond my own bias that appears to cross party
lines a bit thus far. I'll try to get better balance on the issues
on the ground there this spring and from people elsewhere far more
qualified than I am. Greater Yellowstone is a truly amazing wild
land. I will also talk of Otter, Martens, Beaver, Cranes, Herons,
Eagles, Osprey, etc. in these coming months.
With more than three decades worth of wonderful Wyoming memories
I sit at the computer here just east of Colorado's Sangre de Christo
Range pondering another wondrous summer in Wyoming. I was seriously
overweight through the later 90s. After September 11th I reconnected
with my family and the outdoors of Wyoming after a long absence.
I began to get back in shape and have subsequently gotten my life
back. My cousin who has treated me as nothing less than a brother
for 35 years and his family have had a great Ranch for 25 years
that I've helped out on again. I have also had the gift to be able
to walk many of the miles I did as a boy and much younger man, and
a few entirely new and delightful stretches. In 2006 I plan to take
the greatest journey of my life. I will help on the Ranch in May
and June but come July First I will be reincarnated as the younger
man I was, I'm going to have my own summer camp and I'm going to
move it almost daily for 6 to 8 weeks over a meandering +/- 450
mile swath of "Big, Wonderful Wyoming" high country. I have been
hard pressed to get this route of a lifetime out of my mind since
I conceived of it one evening a few weeks ago. With permitting for
National Parks and unforeseen but likely manageable considerations
like snow pack I may have to alter the route somewhat, but I've
drawn an enthralling line I am determined to travel as much of as
I possibly can. Should I complete it you will have to indulge me
for I envision an education I will be compelled to share with you
all.
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